How a cancelled tour during COVID led to a much-loved local café, a new business idea and a reminder that sometimes the best businesses grow from simply spotting a gap in the market.
For the latest episode of Made In Ely, we sat down with Martin Meredith, owner of the Ely Grazing Company, to hear how an unexpected change of direction led him from a career as a professional musician to running one of Ely’s distinctive independent cafés.
Based on Butter Market, the Ely Grazing Company has built a loyal following with its grazing boards, freshly prepared food and welcoming outdoor seating. But its story began in very different circumstances, with cancelled performances, a mobile bar that couldn’t be used and an idea inspired by trips to Australia.
We chatted to Martin about taking a leap into an unfamiliar industry, adapting to seasonal demand, building a brilliant team and why supporting other independent businesses is just as important as looking after your own.
From the stage to the kitchen
Martin has lived in Ely for around 25 years, but music has been a constant throughout his life. He started playing at the age of 12 and became a professional musician at 20, building a career that took him around the world.
That all changed when COVID arrived.
With around 50 shows cancelled, Martin suddenly found himself with time on his hands. Having always fancied running a bar, he bought a mobile bar business, complete with bookings for events at venues including Sandringham and ExCeL London. Unfortunately, those events were cancelled too.
Rather than sit still and wait for things to return to normal, Martin started thinking about what else he could do.
The inspiration came from Australia, where he had enjoyed grazing boards filled with cheese, charcuterie, crackers and chutneys during breaks between performances.
During lockdown, he realised that while Ely had plenty of places offering traditional takeaway food, there wasn’t really a local option for the kind of grazing box he had in mind.
So he made one himself.
With encouragement from his wife, Martin decided to give the idea a go online for Valentine’s Day. The response was incredible: around 75 boxes were ordered and delivered, all made at home.
The business had begun.
Finding a gap in the market
Martin believes the Ely Grazing Company was the first business of its kind in Ely, introducing a concept that was still relatively unfamiliar locally.
Those first orders provided valuable feedback and helped him understand what customers wanted. Martin took a hands-on approach to every part of the operation, from researching packaging and developing the branding to decorating the premises and personally delivering orders.
It wasn’t necessarily profitable from day one. In fact, Martin admitted that the first boxes were generously filled but not priced to reflect their true costs.
However, the experience gave him something arguably more valuable: a detailed understanding of the business, its customers and the practicalities of producing and delivering the food.
As demand grew, the operation quickly outgrew the family home, with fridges, packaging and orders taking over the space.
Martin also recognised that the success of online grazing boxes during lockdown might not last once hospitality venues reopened and customers could eat out again.
Rather than relying on a temporary boom, he began looking for a permanent home for the business.
Creating a little slice of European café culture in Ely
Martin had initially considered opening a live music venue, giving local performers a platform without requiring audiences to travel to Cambridge. However, he struggled to see how the numbers would work throughout the week.
Instead, an opportunity arose to take on the premises on Butter Market that now houses the Ely Grazing Company.
The building’s outdoor seating was a major attraction, even though the interior is very small, with just eight or nine seats inside.
Martin took the plunge, signing the lease and putting his own stamp on the space. He decorated the café himself, carefully developing the look and feel he wanted customers to experience.
The result is a welcoming café bar with a distinctly European feel, where customers can sit outside, enjoy good food and take their time.
For Martin, that experience is central to the business.
His philosophy is simple: service first, money afterwards.
He loves seeing customers enjoy themselves, reading positive reviews and watching familiar faces return. For him, the real reward is when customers become regulars, and regulars become friends.
It’s a refreshing approach in a world where businesses can sometimes become too focused on turnover, table occupancy and getting customers through the door as quickly as possible.
Martin wants people to slow down, enjoy their food and appreciate their surroundings.
Learning to adapt when the seasons change
One of the biggest lessons Martin has learned is that a business needs to evolve with its customers.
The first winter at the café brought an unexpected challenge. Grazing boards had helped establish the business, but demand for cheese, cold meats and chutneys dropped significantly during the colder months.
Martin admitted that he had left it too late to prepare for the seasonal change.
The answer was to broaden the menu.
Homemade soups, toasties, bagels, wraps and other options were introduced alongside the grazing boards, giving customers more reasons to visit throughout the year.
One particular success was Martin’s homemade beef bourguignon, which proved so popular that customers kept asking when it would return.
The experience taught him an important lesson: even when a business has a strong identity, it cannot be afraid to adapt.
The same thinking applies to the online side of the business. At one point, Martin was waking up to unexpectedly large orders, including requests for dozens of boxes across Cambridge, that were difficult to fulfil at short notice.
Because everything is freshly prepared to order, supply and preparation capacity are important considerations. Martin explained that the business still accepts orders by email, while a more controlled ordering system was being worked on at the time of recording.
Sometimes, growth isn’t simply about accepting every order. It’s about understanding what the business can realistically deliver without compromising quality or putting unnecessary pressure on the team.
Building a business around people
Running a café while maintaining an international music career isn’t exactly straightforward.
Martin spoke about checking his phone in the early hours while travelling in America and Australia, making sure everything was running smoothly back in Ely.
He has learned to rely on his team, particularly Scott, the café’s manager, who has been with the business for around five years, alongside a kitchen team he speaks about with enormous pride.
Staff retention is something Martin values highly. Some team members who originally joined while at university return every summer, and he works hard to accommodate staff requests and look after their wellbeing.
His view is that if people feel supported and happy at work, they are more likely to care about the business and the experience they provide to customers.
It’s a philosophy that extends beyond the workplace, too.
Martin is candid about the difficulties of running a business, describing the responsibility and mental load that can come with being self-employed. Even with a great team around you, the decisions and worries can ultimately feel as though they rest on your shoulders.
His advice to other business owners is to learn to delegate, trust the people around you and recognise when you need a break.
As he put it during our conversation, sometimes the team needs to tell you to go home.
The importance of community over competition
One of the most enjoyable parts of our conversation was hearing Martin talk about Ely’s independent business community.
He has been genuinely surprised by the support and loyalty he has received from local residents, fellow business owners and the wider community. He also makes a point of supporting others, whether through charitable donations, raffle prizes or simply encouraging people to visit other independent businesses.
His accountant has even had to remind him how much he gives away to charity!
Martin’s attitude is that there is room for everyone. Rather than worrying about another business offering something similar, he believes the priority should be to do your own thing well, remain consistent and stay true to your original vision.
He is just as happy to recommend other local cafés and independent shops as he is to welcome customers into his own.
It’s a reminder that a strong local business community doesn’t have to be built on competition alone. Collaboration, encouragement and mutual support can make a real difference, particularly when times are tough.
Martin also recognises the contribution of Ely’s markets and Foodie Friday, praising the work that goes into bringing people into the city centre. While the biggest events don’t necessarily send customers directly to every nearby business, he believes they make a valuable contribution to the town’s food culture and atmosphere.
Advice for anyone thinking about starting a business
Looking back on his journey, Martin’s advice to aspiring business owners is refreshingly practical.
1. Be prepared to adapt.
Your original idea might be what gets you started, but customer behaviour, seasonal demand and practical challenges may require you to change direction.
2. Understand the numbers.
Martin’s early grazing boxes were popular, but he wasn’t charging enough to cover the value of everything going into them. A great product still needs a sustainable business model.
3. Trust your team and delegate.
You don’t have to do everything yourself. Recognising your strengths, bringing in help and trusting others can make running a business more manageable.
4. Ask for help.
Martin highlighted the value of local support, including advice from the council, fellow business owners and other people who have faced similar challenges. Sometimes, asking the right question is all it takes to find a solution.
5. Stay true to your values.
For Martin, that means prioritising service, looking after his staff and creating an experience that makes people want to return. Having a clear sense of what matters helps guide decisions as the business evolves.
And perhaps most importantly, don’t forget why you started in the first place.
A business built on more than grazing boards
When asked what he is most proud of, Martin didn’t point to a single milestone or achievement. Instead, he spoke about the positive Google and Tripadvisor reviews, seeing familiar customers return and keeping his team employed and happy.
It’s a fitting reflection of the business he has built.
From making grazing boxes at home during lockdown to establishing a permanent café on Butter Market, Martin’s journey shows what can happen when you combine a good idea with hard work, a willingness to learn and a genuine commitment to people.
And while his career as a musician continues, the Ely Grazing Company has become another important part of his life — one built around good food, good service and a little more time to enjoy the moment.
Visit the Ely Grazing Company
You’ll find the Ely Grazing Company on Butter Market, just off Ely’s Market Square, opposite Greggs.
Whether you’re stopping by for a coffee, a freshly prepared lunch or one of their grazing options, it’s a lovely spot to take a break and support an independent Ely business.
You can also find the Ely Grazing Company on Facebook and Instagram.
Listen to the full episode
Want to hear more about Martin’s journey, his experiences as a professional musician and the realities of running an independent hospitality business?
Listen to the latest episode of Made In Ely, recorded at Ely Work Collective, and discover more stories from the people building businesses in and around our city.
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